🔗 Share this article

When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.